Skin penetration - hyaluronic acid
Have you ever wondered why skincare products don’t seem to work? Your expectations before using an anti-aging product are not even close to reality and the results you get. You want your wrinkles to be smoothed out, your facial muscles to be firmed, your face to be contoured, your money well spent and so on…
Let's explore the reasons why you don’t get the results you hope for.
The skin is made up of different cell layers arranged in a brick and mortar pattern.
The 3 main layers are:
The epidermis is the top layer of the skin that is responsible for protection from infection. It produces cells, called melanocytes, that produce melanin (skin pigment) that may protect the skin from UV rays, and holds a large amount of water.
The dermis is responsible for cushioning the body from stress and strain. It provides nutrition to the epidermis and produces collagen.
The hyperdermis is called the fatty layer. Responsible for nutrition storage, thermal insulation and shock absorption.
As seen above, in order for a product or treatment to work it has to find its way in between these layers/across the skin barrier to penetrate properly. Normal creams sit only on the skin’s surface and cannot get through the skin’s protective layer. For our skin to regain elasticity and the capacity to retain moisture we must find out how to get through the top layer.
There are many products on the shelves but the most widely used ingredient is the anti-aging miracle hyaluronic acid (HA). Of course, it is not that simple but let's see first what HA is and what it does.
Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan, is a clear substance that is naturally produced by the body. It is described as nature’s moisturizer as it is one of the most hydrophilic (water loving) substances in nature. Nearly 50 percent of the total HA found in the body is in the skin.
As we grow older hyaluronan production decreases. We can notice this by fine lines appearing on our skin and by the skin getting dryer and losing its elasticity.
HA absorbs water and retains moisture in the skin, stimulates fibroblasts to produce the body's own natural collagen and makes your skin softer and plumper for that glowing effect.
However, hylauronic acid itself, when applied topically, is too large a molecule to pass through the skin and cannot be absorbed by nor penetrate the skin. There are products that contain HA with a smaller molecular weight. These can penetrate to the bottom of the epidermis which is deep enough to fully moisturize the skin. This is what affects the result and the price tag. Medium and large molecular weight HA will sit on the surface of the skin – not a bad thing either. These molecules can provide a barrier, attracting moisture from the atmosphere and keeping the surface hydrated.
So buy your hyaluronic acid serum, toner, moisturizer, foundation, concealer or injections depending on the outcome you are looking for and on your budget. Expensive products typically contain HA of a smaller molecule weight and that will determine the effect.
Use HA products, especially serums, on damp skin then put a layer of rich mousturizer on top of it and an extra layer of oil to lock it all in.
If you use serum under your moisturizer or oil it’s important to bear in mind that it can only be added to your products if they contain water (water based)!!
Hyaluronic acid face serum can be applied day and night.
Can HA be used on all skin types?
Apparently so, most skin types will benefit from this miracle ingredient, although dry or more mature skin would benefit most with noticeable results.
